I think rotaries are the best way to remove scratches, swirls and compounding marks left behind from the inexperienced. They are also the best way to ruin the paint, that?s why rotaries should only be used by experienced people only. Here I will share some hints and tips on using a rotary that I find works for me. Please note that this is a basic guide and not all cars and paint systems are the same.

PREPARATION

The first thing to do is make sure the car is clean (of course) and clayed; buffing won?t always remove paint contaminants.

Apply masking tape to all rubbers and plastics that could be damaged by the buff, also cover windscreen wipers and vents to prevent them getting covered in compound sling; it can be a real bitch to clean up. Try removing things like blinkers, washer jets, bonnet protectors, headlight protectors and number plates. Badges are also good to cover with tape.

SPEED

Speed plays a major roll in buffing, and with most jobs around 1200 rpm is just right. Sometimes higher is needed for a more aggressive cut (up to 1500-1600), and lower for a better finish (800-1000).

HANDLING AND PLACEMENT

When holding the machine, don?t grip it too tight, relax a little and work with the buff. Keep the buff as flat as possible with a little downward pressure and let the machine do the work. A little more downward pressure on the left can make the action more aggressive, and to the right easier to control. When I?m doing the downward panels I like to hold the buff around the body and not the handle, because it?s more comfortable and easier to control, and on the top panels I?ll usually hold it by the handle. Be careful around edges and protruding objects, this is where the most damage is caused.

PADS

There are many buffing pads on the market ranging in sizes from 6? to 9?, foam pads to wool pads, flat and waffle and even 2? pads that are used on small pneumatic polishers, which are excellent for small repairs and hard to get places. It?s best to have a range of pads to suit all occasions, I usually have up to 9 or 10 different pads on hand. Depending on the condition off the job, I find a finishing foam pad, like a white edge or a grey contour with a mild abrasive (3M pad glaze or menzerna intensive polish) can usually do the job, if more aggression is needed, try a more aggressive compound with the same style pads, and if that doesn?t work then try a more aggressive pad. Remember you may have to go over some areas up to two or three times to get the end result and all scratches may not be removed.

Also, try to start light and work your way up, starting heavy can sometimes cause more work then needed. Wool pads should only be a last resort as they tend to be too aggressive, and dangerous in the wrong hands.

keeping your pads clean is also important, during the job use a stiff scrubbing brush and lightly clean your pad after each section; e.g. half the bonnet, working just out from the center to the outer of the pad while running the machine, then stop the buff and brush in the opposite direction the buff spins. After each car and sometimes during, wash the pad under running water and spin dry.

COMPOUNDS

This is where it gets even more confusing; because there are so many compounds on the market it would be impossible to try them all. Try and find a range of products to suit your needs; again I have maybe a dozen different compounds ranging from very heavy cutting, down to light polishing. Always be open to brands and strengths, for like I said at the start, not all paint systems and cars are the same; what works on a commodore, may not work the same on a Ferrari.

A light mist of water can help get more out of the product you are using, it can help with the polishing action, and make it go further; I use water with all my compounds, even if they say you don?t need to.

It may take a while, but in time you will find products that you get to know and like. Another concern are cosmetic products (hide the imperfections that you are trying to remove). Imagine spending a day buffing a car only to wash it down and see it?s not much better than when you started, not good, and I?ve seen it happen.

When you start a job, work out what combination of pads and compounds you?ll be using before you start the second panel.

LIGHTING

Good lighting is one of the most important things needed to get the job done right, without it you can?t see what you?re doing. A set of twin 500 watt spot lights on a tripod are a good option, but don?t totally rely on them, they don?t always show everything, take the car out into the sun and have a look as well. Also try not to have to much natural light as it can retard the effect of the spotlights, the darker the room the more the spotlights will show.

WET RUBBING SCRATCHES

Some scratches need to be wet rubbed with 2000 to 4000 to get the best results; it can be quicker to rub out the scratch (if it?s too deep it?s better to leave it then take off too much paint) and then buff it than buffing alone, this is one thing that should be practiced on an old panel until you know what you are doing, before you attack somebody?s pride and joy. Be careful, it?s too easy to go through the paint.

CLEANING UP

After you?ve finished buffing, use a high pressure cleaner to remove as much compound as possible from around lights, door handles, jams and where ever else compound gets into to; a small soft brush may also be necessary. Now wash the car and get it ready for the final polishing and sealing; if using Zaino, polishing needs to be done before washing down with dishwashing liquid.

SUMMARY

As I explained at the start, this is just a guide to buffing a car; I?m not trying to tell anyone how to do their job, just share a few tips.

The first time I used a rotary was 19 years ago and I?ve been detailing for the last 10 years or so and I?m still learning new things all the time.

Read as many forums, talk to people and get as much practice as possible; this might even mean doing some freebies for friends and family.

Buffing a car takes time, I?ve spent up to 14 hours with the buff alone, so to get the best finish possible, be patient and take your time.

This is the first time I?ve posted something like this, and any comments would be appreciated.

Jayde Aleman
Dulvari Prestige